CROATIA – 3-10 SEPTEMBER 2004
Kornati Region
Itinerary Friday 3rd Sep Fly London Gatwick-Split – Transfer to Betina Marina (Murter) Friday night in Marina aboard Jasna, 35’ Activity. Saturday 4th Sep Betina Marina – Bain Bay (Zut) Overnight Mooring buoy Sunday 5th Sep Bain – Betina Marina – Vodice (Mainland) Overnight Vodice marina Monday 6th Sep Vodice – Privic (south of the "e" in Vodice) Overnight Privic at anchor Tuesday 7th Sep Privic – Levso (by the "R" in Kornati) Overnight mooring buoy Wednesday 8th Sep Levso – Telascica Bay (south end Dugi Otok) Overnight mooring buoy Thursday 9th Sep Telascicsa – Zut Bay Overnight mooring buoy Friday 10th Sep Zut Bay – Betina Marina Transfer to Split for return flight Sailing distance covered 139 Nm
The Crew
Skipper – Phil Skipper’s Mate – Jacquie, Crew – Janet, Sefton and Sandy Coffee Maker 1st Class – Richard (note the promotion from cabin boy second class!!) Where to begin Everyone’s heard of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five and Secret Seven, but here is an even more amazing adventure story, all about HSSC very own Sea Sick Six.The hardy crew of six flew off to Croatia to set sail in the Adriatic Sea and each day proved to be an adventure in its own right, with laughter, danger, tears and joy. So read on and enjoy this very special tale of the Sea Sick Six. In line with true HSSC tradition, we ensured we had crew with the right skills mix for all eventualities, including our very own on-board lawyer (Sefton), as you never know when a lawsuit is in the offing. As with all HSSC events, food plays a central part of the sailing experience, so we were very fortunate to have Jacquie and Sandy on-board, two world-renowned experts in the field of ‘Food – the Art of Jewish Sailing’. Janet was our voice of reason and provided us with a calming influence when others started to lose their rag and/or the plot.
The Flight to Croatia
For those people who hark back to the good old days of the iron curtain, you can’t get a much better a reminder of those jolly days, than the ‘in-flight’ service by Air Croatia. All their crew undergo a three-year training course run by the Aeroflot charm school. Air Croatia ‘customer care’ is something to behold. Phil being a brave sea dog, decided to eat the meal provided by our wonderful hostess. By the way, these charmless beauties, are all ex shot-putters. When Phil asked the trolley dollies what the sloops (sorry, I mean food) on the plate is, they were so taken a back by what we saw as Phil’s bravery, they threaten to throw him of the plane, mid flight.
Log
Friday 3rd September
A hot sweaty bus transfer from Split airport took us to our boat in Betina Marina, Murter. We got acquainted with Jasna, our 35’ Activity yacht. This was quickly followed by dinner in marina restaurant. In good measure, this was followed by drinks in the much more companiable local hostelry. Then off we went to our bunks and sleep came easy till morning. Our boat 35-foot Activity yacht, is one of six Bavaria look-alikes especially built in Slovenia for the charter company. In line with most traditional charter yachts, its easier and quicker to list what equipment worked, rather than bore you with the lengthy list of what didn’t work. So, we are pleased to report that the fenders and wooded plank provided were of the highest quality. That night was our first meeting with the head of the charter company commonly known as Smarmy Gary (sadly we meet up with this low life on many more occasions). Smarmy Gary (SG for short) spent about an hour trying to persuade us to follow the rest of the charter fleet on the week’s excursion, starting off with a day sail to an island about 1,000 meters away from Betina marina (the port where we picked up the boat). The more SG said about the great itinerary he had put together for those people on the flotilla boats, the more we realised we needed to avoid them like the plague.
Saturday 4th September
We awoke to the sound of wind, having been told by SG the night before, there will be NO wind in the morning, but the sounds of the wind blowing through the rigging tell us something quite different. Phil, Jac, and Richard attend the briefing. Again SG and Co tried their hardest to get us to tag along with them, but we make it clear to them we have other plans. Jacquie and Sandy went off to explore what the local retail fraternity could offer and sought out breakfast products. They came back to the boat armed to the teeth with a range of homegrown fruit and vegetables sold by the local ‘rent a granny’ brigade. These wonderful old ladies all dressed in black and missing in teeth, were only to pleased to sell us their wares. Jacquie and Sandy returned with all we required from the local Granny brigade on roadside. This gives a whole new aspect on curb crawling! Even at rip-off tourist prices, we still only paid a few pennies for fruit and veg that set your taste buds alive. So we had the first of many mouth-watering meals aboard. Wonderful, sweet, deep red tomatoes were consumed by all. Even Richard was impressed !!! 
After the briefing, we undertook the serious task of provisioning for the week. As always in HSSC, this was a military operation directed by Jacquie and Sandy. Sefton as if by magic, found a trolley to move the ton of food we bought to the boat. After completing our provisioning, Janet deicided she was not satisfied with our storing abilities, so she reorganises all our supplies so we would actually know where anything was kept. Satisfied we could not starve and with the local shop keepers running off to the local church to give thanks for the huge profits they’ve just made, we set sail and began our voyage of discovery against a backdrop of islands that were continually changing. That afternoon, we finally moored in the bay opposite the village (okay, one building) of Bain, on the island of Zut. Immediately, we dived off to swim in the clear blue waters. We made it to shore and felt it was important to enhance diplomatic relations with the locals by consuming a carafe of local vino, the first but by no means last alcohol intake of the day. The consumption of alcohol was to become a constant pattern of the trip. Dinner in local restaurant, comprising selection of fish and veg and salads; and again, much local wine and beer.
Sunday 5th September
We listened to a howling gale all night gusting 30K. Richard made several night time visits to deck and mast to check all was okay. This allowed the rest of us to sleep more soundly and with confidence! Right!! Gradually, as dawn approached the winds began to subside a little and the odd hour of kip followed! Coffee and brekkie, as usual was a most important ritual. This was followed by the sighting of ‘Thong Man’. With our first acquaintance with ‘Thong Man’, delighted squeals were heard emanating from the three women following the first of what was to be many sightings. This hardy chap (allegedly of good physique) proudly paraded his wares to all and sundry, on an all-male German boat, moored on the next-door buoy. Cries of appreciation went up from the female members of our crew as ‘thong man’ displayed his body for their contemplation. After the women recovered (which took quite some time), we got down to the serious business of eating breakfast. From then on in, Sandy would measure the success of each day by the number of sightings she had of thong man (or not!!) Finally, we set sail from Zut to Bikirijica. However, after sailing for about two hours, the wind started to pick up and so another adventure was about to unfold. At around 11.10 whilst putting in a second reef in the mainsail, a batten flew waywardly out of the sail and headed directly for Richard’s forehead, carving a 2 cm long cut deeply into the flesh. Despite being rapidly converted to a bloodied Spiderman-like character, brave Richard never flinched, moreover and after a very brief inspection by Dr Phil, he carried on bravely until control of the boat was regained and all crew quite safe. Blood was removed from the boat and Richard (in that order). After the cut was inspected by the entire crew and legal advice given by Sefton, we turned about and motored swiftly back to Betina Marina, a name that is beginning to grate ever so slightly. Upon arriving back at Betina marina we were met by our dear friend (not) SG. Having spent the last hour reading up his charter’s guidebook entitled ‘don’t blame me if there’s something wrong with the boat’; SG came over to greet us. Naturally, we were all delighted to see him again. SG, who so lacked the charm of a diplomat, patronisingly took away the sail for repair, and, because it was Sunday, the only sail repairer conscious in the area was several km away. However, SG took time to say that the reason the baton came out of its sleeve had nothing to do with the sail being badly maintained or the baton being too long for the sleeve. It was at this point that Jacquie thought it would be helpful to have a ‘few words in his shell-like’. From that point on, SG turned off the smarm, and tried to just keep to getting the sail repaired. 
So after eating lunch, using the facilities, getting a steri-strip on RM’s cut, we proceeded to our next port of call without a mainsail. We passed under a beautiful swing bridge, which enabled us to arrive in day light at the marina in Vodice. There we had arranged to meet up with Gill and Robert and retrieve our hopefully repaired sail. The mooring up at Vodice caused all sorts of excitement. No, not just because Gill and Robert were moored up further along the pontoon, but ‘thong man’ and crew were moored opposite us. In a brave attempt to calm the women down, Sefton took off his shirt and showed the world that he too can display his ‘body beautiful’. Somehow, this did not have the same effect on Jacqui, Janet and Sandy. Our dear friend SG turned up with the repaired sail and it was soon fixed back on the mast. No sooner was the sail attached to the mast than SG couldn’t be seen for dust, which was a bit of a blessing. Finally, after a somewhat stressful day, we relaxed with our Pimm’s and began to feel the safe cosy feeling that was to remain with us, thankfully, for the rest of the trip. A later stroll through the town unveiled its more tranquil and local side and we found a traditional drinking establishment (Konoba Drazi, Grgurev Tonca, 22211 Vodice, Croazia), far from the glitz, that so happened to offer great food as well. The locals looked on at our raucous laughter at some of Phil’s more unusual A & E stories and the last vestiges of stress were swept away in an ever so slightly alcoholic haze. Monday 6th September
Sail from Vodice to Privic
Sefton having completed a successful bread finding mission, we set out morning libations. We set sail at round 10.45 after breakfast and taking on even more provisions, including a frying pan, as Jasna leaves a little to be desired in the utensils department! 
We reached ‘No House Bay’ (later to be renamed ‘No Thong Bay’) around lunchtime. Some swam and others rowed ashore to check out the island and we were immediately joined by an army of invading wasps. Lovely. Not to be outdone by thong man, another boat full of Germans, decided to enter ‘no house bay’ with their crew wearing nothing but smiles. One particular oik decided that he needed to wave to us by using his wedding tackle as a flag of friendship. It was at this point that Phil thought it wise to disarm Richard of the distress flare he was about to point towards the yacht off our port side. After Janet and Richard fell prey to stings, we retired back to boat and cast off for Privic arriving around 7.00 pm. Just as Sandy and Janet were about to prepare dinner, Jac and Phil returned from a reckie ashore to pronounce they’ve found a super eatery. All kitchen activity ceased immedately except for preparing sundowners! No resistance there then! The restaurant was on quayside and very rustic. Yet another gourmet repast washed down by more, yes wait for it… alcohol! (AA watch out for an influx of new members!) Richard very happy with the pizza; Sefton couldn’t have been happier choosing his fruit juice from the complete array placed before him on the table. 
A Max Bygraves look-alike waited at table most attentively and sent us back to boat with much treasured ice!! Apparently ice is a rarity in this part of Croatia, but for some reason, Janet’s charm prevailed each and every time, and we never parted with money even once! That night we slept as very happy sailors indeed. Tuesday 7th September
Sail from Privic to Levso, South Kornati (Barren Islands)
Jac, Phil and Sandy get up real early to explore the Pine forests above Privic. Others remain aboard to relax in peace! On way back to boat, an order for fresh sardines is placed and collected later with even more ice to cool their passage! After a good sail, we entered Levso bay and aim for a mooring buoy. However, with the wind whipping up, a small section of foresail refusing to be furled (yup, yet another piece of equipment not working properly) and a very heavy buoy on a short line, it became apparent we were not going to moor up in any conventionally easy manner. With quite an audience, the crew reluctantly provided the cabaret for the evening, finally completing the task with Phil’s bright idea of lassoing the buoy. It seems this is the way to do it as we watch most others use this method immediately! Tensions gradually ease with the help of … yes you got it…. more alcohol. Scotch this time!
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| Happily the sardines travelled well, tucked up tightly in the heads and Rich and Jac set about gutting and cleaning them. After dining well on rice, sardines, bean salad and ratatouille, its was party time, complete with Phil’s flashing miners lamp and pole dancers! (enough said already). |
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| Later that night the winds of the forecast Bora move in and the “meercat” effect came into play. Phil, Richard and occasionally Jacquie took turns to go up on deck and check all was well to allow the rest of us to sleep in peace and tranquillity! Right! |
Wednesday 8th September
Levso to Telascica Nature Reserve
Short motor sail, light winds arrived by late lunchtime in order for us to hook up with Gill and Robert. We arrive first and of course, just as soon as we moored, so the winds pick up! As Gill and Co entered the bay we signalled them to join us in a glass of Pimm’s. No sooner had Gill rafted-up next to us and glasses of booze passed over, did the Kornati’s ‘job-worth’ come charging over in his motor driven rib, saying its absolutely forbidden to raft up etc. We tied to explain to him the importance the British place on the ritual of drinking Pimm’s, but to no avail. Sadly, we set Gill’s boat free and waved them off, but this didn’t stop us returning to the Pimm’s and Gill to continue a spirited sail. So we parted company with Gill and crew, and the Sea Sick Six had lost their playmates. This was to be our last sighting of Gill, until she was once again seen in the Hendon Hall hotel car park a few weeks later. 
After refreshments, a few of us explored the Nature reserve and hiked around the Salt Lake, coming across an extraordinary sculptured stone garden about half way around the bay, with a stunning view across the other side of the island. We added our own art work to the massed stone cavalry and returned to base to rest for a few hours before dining on Sardine Hors d’oevres, followed by stuffed peppers, salt potatoes and onions, pasta and sun dried tomato sauce etc; etc. well this is the HSSC cordon bleu cruise isn’t it ??!! Following the meal we repair to our dinghy that can only take four people. So Richard in true cabin-boy style rows backwards and forwards until we are all ashore. Yet again, we head for a Bar for….. a few more drinks!
Thursday 9th September
Oh sad day; our last full day’s sailing before we leave… too painful to bear and a combination of breathtaking scenery and the amazing camaraderie of the six fearless friends on board, there were odd moments of melancholy at the thought of leaving this paradise. This time we go for an early start and sail to Bain Bay, on Zut for a brunch time mooring. Sefton takes the helm for most of this leg, successfully holding the course in fairly strong winds. We maintained a speed of 6 knots for most of the day and were treated to a Sandy special 360-degree gybe!! 
From Bain to Island 36, we moor successfully in Zmanja bay at around 17.30 in time for a swim, and sundowners with beautiful Kodak moments. Sandy had by now become a complete mop and tears flow at regular intervals! Dinner ashore in really posh restaurant with great food. We laughed and cried in equal measure, toasting everyone and everything… we have become a real team, a true HSSC family. We returned to the boat with an air of acceptance that we are truly on the homeward leg. Were it not for the alcohol we would have been really maudlin! Friday 10th September 02.00 Slumber interrupted by winds picking up again. Sandy and Janet wonder why Notre Dame is ringing its bell above their cabin, but somehow can’t do anything about it. Finally, at 04:30 Richard stops being a lazy cabin-boy and gets up to stop the anchor swinging like a bell. A little sleep ensues but dawn approaches and we make an early dash for Betina, and tie up. Strangely, there is a distinct lack of the animated and ever helpful SG. His second in command does make a cameo appearance, however and we all have the distinct feeling that the Activity team are more than a little pleased to see the back of us! Being a shy and retiring bunch, we had decided to ask the flotilla staff how come SG wasn’t there to see us off. At this point, a number of grown men were seen having an ‘awkward moment’ and generally looking down at their feet. We decided to help them out of the odd pose they had adopted, by asking if by any chance, SG non-appearance had anything to do with the quality customer care he had provided us with earlier on in the week. Silly schoolboy smirks rose across their faces, so we decided that we shouldn’t hoist our dissatisfaction upon on these poor souls, just because we’ve been denied having one more opportunity to give SG a verbal kicking. So at this point, Richard told our non-english speaking mini bus driver to take us to Split airport for the journey back home. Naturally, the driver totally ignored Richard and in his own good time, drove us to our plane. We sat, sadly watching paradise fading behind us despite the stunning views from the bus. Our flight is on time; our luggage out first, and still we all feel just a little lost in our own thoughts and reflections of an amazing and exhilarating week at one with the wonders of land and sea.
Finally
So ends the tale of the Sea Sick Six; we hope you’ve enjoyed reading about our tales of adventure and fun. At the moment, the entire crew are in rehab, addressing their alcohol dependency issues. We look forward to meeting up with all our friends in HSSC, so we can bore you with all our stories and memories from our wonderful sailing experience in Croatia. Richard Marks Sandy Kattan
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